Accommodation

I've done Cusco. I've done La Paz. Now, I've got the complete set of three: I've done Loki Lima! As with its two brethren, Loki Lima is the place to be: smack bang in the middle of Miraflores (across the road from the massive McDonald's), with a kicking Irish bar on the premises, and with super-friendly guests and staff. Very different to Flying Dog, which is nice, but a lot more tranquil. When you come to Loki, you come to enjoy, not to sleep.

Like most of the places to stay in the oasis of Huacachina, Casa de Arena is a very chilled-out resort-slash-hostel affair, with a nice swimming pool (a bit cold this time of year), a poolside bar, and a buffet BBQ every night (not only with all-you-can-eat chicken and salad, but also all-you-can-drink Pisco Sours and Cuba Libres!). Pretty good value, too — as evidenced by the abundance of (stoned) Israelis that stay there. Not sure when I'm going to leave this place, but it ain't anytime soon. :P

This place is one of the best hostels I've been to, so far on my trip. Definitely up there with Amigo, as a contender for numero uno in my good hostels book. At the moment, the owners are away, and it's being run by a super-friendly 6-foot-tall Kiwi guy, and his German girlfriend. These two are bending over backwards for their guests 24/7, offering us free food constantly (way above and beyond the complementary breakfast, which alone is the most gawdamn outstanding brekky I've seen this side of the Pacific), providing little luxuries everywhere (like soap, hand towels, and free local phone calls), and hanging out with the guests each night, and entertaining us with their lively company. And it's not in Lonely Planet yet, so just be sure to remember it!

Reasonable enough hostel, situated in the middle of things in Iquique. As with San Pedro, they have the annoying thing about paying for each night in advance; but at least here, they'll let you dump your bags in a storeroom after you've checked out. The place has a good vibe, even though I didn't particularly think the same of the city that it's in.

Fairly basic joint in sleepy and touristy San Pedro: has about the same offerings as most other hostels in town, and is also about as overpriced as its peers (even the Israelis can't find a good deal in this rip-off town, much to their annoyance). Hasn't got proper dorms — only rooms of 2 or 3 beds — so it's better if you go in a group. The owners are also really anal about paying in advance for each night (apparently, it's a Chile / Argentina thing — I don't care if it's a legal requirement, it's a gawdamn pain in the a$$), and about not being able to leave your bags in a storage room or to use any facilities for the rest of the day, if you check out in the morning (i.e. they force you to pay for another night, if you're going to just be in town until the evening — how cheap-a$$ is that?). But good nonetheless.

Very awesome place: a hotel on the edge of the Salar de Uyuni, built almost entirely out of salt! For the first night of our salt flats tour, we stayed in this ingenious and quite luxurious place. Impressive building, great rooms, and nice food. They also sell Chilean and Argentinean wine (which we bought, and drank — and it was good, unlike Bolivian wine).

Accommodation is all pretty similar in its lack of quality — in particular, in its lack of warmth — here in cold, cold Uyuni. Hotel Avenida is probably above average in this regard, but that's not saying much. The rooms are still bloody freezing at night, and have no heating. When you come to Uyuni, wherever you stay, make sure to bring thermal nightclothes, and a very warm sleeping bag. You'll need it!

Some towns only have one place worth staying at. The Koala Den in Potosí is one of those places. Quite friendly, with a nice little lounge area to chat with ye 'ol fellow travellers, and a great TV / dining room as well (excellent collection of DVDs!). Also has quite an extensive 2-for-1 book exchange collection. And, very importantly, it's a warm "den" (as its name suggests) in a very cold town.

Much like its counterpart in Cusco, Loki is the place to stay in La Paz. Slightly overpriced, brimming with luxurious extras — e.g. bar, TV room, free Internet — and strictly gringos only. Definitely the place to go if you want to meet people, and if you want to party all night, every night. Loki La Paz is quite new (the Cusco one is the original and the biggest); but despite not yet being in any of the guidebooks, it's already fully booked out days in advance. It is in itself an attraction of the city.

Very comfortable guesthouse, just outside of the busy part of Rurrenabaque, with a very nice atmosphere, and a great balcony full of lazy hammocks to crash in. Stayed here in between my jungle and pampas trips in the area, and it was nice and cosy every time.